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Nanoscale Cosmetics processes," says Dr. Michael Danielov, a physician and scientist who trained in the Soviet Union and serves as CEO of New York-based BioNova (bionovalab.com). The company recently introduced Nano SkinTech, a line of products based on a nanotechnological platform. Danielov does not believe that simply grinding ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide into nanoscale particles qualifies as nanotechnology. "Any good quality cosmetic emulsion has always and will always contain nanoscale droplets or particles," the doctor continues. "For this we do not need new equipment or special claims. Without nanoparticles there is no stable emulsion." He is lobbying the FDA to adopt a definition of nanotechnology for the life sciences that includes only materials that have some actual effect on human physiology. Friedman agrees that terminology can be a problem, especially when it comes to describing what are generically called nanoparticles. "Size is not the only factor in nanotechnology. A small fragment of carbon is not nanotechnology, but carbon rolled into a small nanotube designed to conduct electricity or to serve as a cage for a drug is nanotechnology. At the nanoscale, materials can have completely new properties and functions. Scientific discoveries in nanotechnology showed extraordinary growth in 2012. Fullerenes, for example, are football-shaped, caged molecules of carbon atoms being used in cosmetics to protect and transport active ingredients, and enhance their effect," he says. (For more on the different types of nanomaterials being used in cosmetics see "Naming Nanomaterials" on page 82.) The scientific world is really just dipping its toe into the vast ocean of possibilities presented by nanotechnology, and these definitions will become even more important as the developing field fills its sails. Scientific discoveries in nanotechnology showed extraordinary growth in 2012, according to Friedman. The doctor lists several that should be of particular interest to skincare professionals: • "Studies showed calcium phosphate and carbonate nanoparticles safely prevented nickel ions from dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo • Use FreeInfo #36 84 DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2013