Dayspa

FEB 2013

DAYSPA is the magazine of spa management. Spa owners and spa managers turn to DAYSPA for spa management trends, spa management tips and more.

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MODES OF MOISTURIZING week, add a concentrate to repair skin damage and fight free radicals, and start applying SPF every day. Fitzpatrick: For delicate, mature skin types, I suggest gentle, jojoba bead-based exfoliants. Heathman: At 60, women experience a significant drop in estrogen that affects the skin's internal hydration, and the protective stratum corneum layer becomes thinner and less pliable. Marion needs her skincare routine reassessed, and I would also recommend AHA lactic or glycolic peeling treatments to re-educate Marion's aging cells and help build up her internal hydration. Campbell: A retinoid serum will help to gently renew her mature skin. Marion would also benefit from enzyme treatments and hydration facials. moisturized twice daily for years, but lately, nothing seems to be able to keep her skin from becoming parched and flaky by midday. What can she do? Morris: It seems likely that Marion is not using an appropriate moisturizer for her skin type. People living in humid climates often mistakenly select cream that is too light to be adequately hydrating. Plus, some moisturizers actually contain drying fragrances or alcohol. Keep in mind, moisturizing is just not enough once we're past middle age—Marion needs an antiaging regimen with peptides and retinol to improve the natural retention capacity of her skin. Pichery: As the skin ages, the epidermis becomes thinner and its intercellular cement becomes porous; therefore, the skin becomes more dehydrated. Furthermore, cell renewal slows, leading 64 DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2013 to rougher skin texture. As exposure to the Miami sun has probably intensified Marion's dehydration, she needs intensive cell nourishment. Omegas and peptides will provide cell nutrition, exfoliants will hasten cellular renewal, and once a week she should use hydrating masks. If she still feels tightening sensations, recommend lipid-rich balms. Asquith: If she's not exfoliating regularly, the buildup of keratinized cells on her skin's surface is preventing the penetration of her moisturizer's active components. And, in her sunny climate, Marion has likely accumulated even more dead surface cells. She should immediately begin to exfoliate at least three times per Linker Also remind her that one of the most common moisturizing mistakes is failing to understand that for best results, the skin needs to be damp during application. Exfoliants will hasten cellular renewal. ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM CLIENT PROFILE: Marion, 60, a Miami resident, has Zangl: She should add a serum rich in hyaluronic acid to her routine, and finish with a more occlusive moisturizer. The smaller molecules of the serum will penetrate hydration more deeply, and the cream will lock in that much-needed moisture.

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